WINECHAT

Conversation with Carsten Henn

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This month at wine.vino.wein, we're all about big and small escapes during the colder season. In the midst of the gray winter days, it’s often the little moments that help us unwind and enjoy the present – like curling up at home with a great book and a fine glass of wine. That’s why we’re excited to welcome bestselling German author Carsten Henn to our WineChat, where we talk about his book "Der Mann, der auf einen Hügel stieg und von einem Weinberg herunterkam" ("The Man Who Climbed a Hill and Came Down from a Vineyard").
Your book "Der Mann, der auf einen Hügel stieg und von einem Weinberg herunterkam" ("The Man Who Climbed a Hill and Came Down from a Vineyard") isn’t just about a passion for wine – it also explores personal themes of love, friendship, loss, and new beginnings. What inspired you to weave these elements together, and in your view, what’s the connection between wine and life philosophy?

Carsten Henn:
That wasn’t actually planned – it just happened naturally. The book started with a different approach: years ago, a group of friends and I bought several vineyard parcels in the St. Aldegunder Himmelreich site along the steep terraces of the Mosel. These were all extremely steep slopes with dry-stone walls and ungrafted vines. Our goal was to produce a great dry Riesling and, ideally, cover some of our investment costs. We failed spectacularly on both fronts.

For my book, I wanted to spend a year visiting top winemakers and working alongside them in their vineyards to understand exactly what we could have done better. But along the way, I learned so much from these fascinating individuals – lessons that apply far beyond winemaking. Their meticulous, deeply thoughtful approach to the craft of winemaking revealed fundamental truths about life itself. It was an incredibly valuable experience.

On your journey, you had many personal encounters with winemakers who influenced not only your perspective on viticulture but also on life itself. Was there a particular moment or meeting that had a profound impact on your understanding of winemaking?

Carsten Henn:
Each encounter was valuable in its own way. Tasting long-aged Rieslings with Ernie Loosen showed me the power of time. Learning about vine pruning from KPK, who approaches each vine as an individual, completely changed my perspective. And witnessing the dedication to biodynamics at the Kühn estate was truly inspiring.

But the most emotional moment for me was harvesting grapes in my own vineyard, a place I had avoided for years because it symbolized my personal failure.

"Authenticity is a rare virtue in today’s world of fake news and photo filters."

Your book combines expert wine knowledge with an emotional narrative. How did you strike the right balance to appeal to both wine connoisseurs and casual readers?

Carsten Henn:
I stayed true to myself – honest, open, and self-deprecating. Authenticity is incredibly important to me, especially in a world dominated by fake news and digital perfection. I didn’t write with a specific audience in mind, but I’m thrilled that the book resonates with wine experts, casual enthusiasts, and even readers who have no interest in wine but know me from novels like "Der Buchspazierer" ("The Book Walker").

How has writing this book changed your personal relationship with wine and the way you approach mindful enjoyment in everyday life?

Carsten Henn:
It changed my career, because as a result of everything I learned over that year, I resigned from my position as editor-in-chief of VINUM magazine.
Great wine requires time and patience – it can't be rushed. Balance is key, and I don’t mean the trendy concept of "work-life balance." I mean giving things the time they need. Just as a winemaker patiently nurtures vines in the vineyard or allows wine to mature in the cellar, we should embrace that same patience in life. It’s an old, simple truth – but truly incorporating it into our lives is a major challenge.

Do you have a favorite wine-related anecdote that you love to share?

Carsten Henn:
Most of my favorite stories are in my book "Gebrauchsanweisung für Wein" ("A User’s Guide to Wine"). But one particularly formative experience was tasting a noble sweet Riesling Auslese from Dr. Randolf Kauer in Bacharach. Back when I was 19, I would take my old VW Beetle on road trips through wine regions, visiting top wineries and selecting wines for our family cellar. When we opened Randolf’s wine at home, my father dropped to his knees and blessed himself – half in jest, half in pure awe – because he had never experienced such an explosive interplay of acidity and sweetness before. It was a joke, but with a deep grain of truth. That was one of those rare, magical moments of wine that you always read about but seldom experience.

And finally — do you have a favorite wine? Can you tell us how you discovered and fell in love with it?

Carsten Henn:
I don’t have just one. But I do have grape varieties and regions that I’m completely devoted to: off-dry Riesling Kabinett, Burgundian Chardonnay, Jura whites, Champagne, cool-climate Pinot Noir, and aged, traditionally made Riojas.

I know I love them because they’re the wines that disappear from my cellar the fastest. I’ve bought plenty of wines that amazed me at first sip, only to realize later that I never felt the urge to open another bottle. Over time, I’ve learned – through the empty cases and forgotten bottles – what truly excites my palate.

Of course, that doesn’t mean I can’t be completely floored by a 2020 Quinta da Fonte Souto Taifa at Vendôme or a 2021 Chardonnay Tiglat from Weingut Velich at Le Moissonnier in Cologne. Sometimes, a single wine can be so extraordinary that it briefly eclipses everything else.

Carsten, thank you for this inspiring conversation!
Carsten Sebastian Henn is an acclaimed author, wine journalist, and restaurant critic, widely known for his novels and nonfiction books, many of which center around wine and gastronomy. A standout example is "Der Mann, der auf einen Hügel stieg und von einem Weinberg herunterkam" ("The Man Who Climbed a Hill and Came Down from a Vineyard"), in which he shares his personal journey – and challenges – attempting to produce his own Riesling on a Mosel vineyard. The book explores why, despite his extensive wine knowledge, he struggled to succeed in winemaking. More than just a tale of failure, it highlights the profound lessons learned through setbacks and showcases how wine can serve as both a source of pleasure and a metaphor for growth and transformation.

Please note: The book is only available in German.

Learn more about the novel
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