In the first issue of wine.vino.wein, we explore how wine can charmingly enhance the winter and holiday season. Who better to kick off our new conversation series than wine connoisseur and sommelier Michael Kutej?
Michael Kutej is co-owner and managing director of the Hanse Lounge in Hamburg and a longtime member of the Confrérie de la Chaîne des Rôtisseurs as Maître du Vin Sommelier. He also serves as a board member of the German Knigge Society and is one of the creators of the successful wine podcast Vier Flaschen ("Four Bottles") by the Hamburger Abendblatt. In our chat, we discuss which festive food and wine pairings are considered classics and how unexpected new accents can elevate the holiday table, all from the perspective of an expert in refined indulgence.
Eating habits are changing more and more. For many, Christmas Eve no longer has to feature a roast goose—it’s shifting toward vegan, vegetarian, and modern interpretations of holiday menus. But is classic red wine still a good choice?
Michael Kutej:
I think so, especially in the colder months. A bolder, more intense wine feels right for this time of year. That said, it’s clear that people are drinking less red wine overall, and when they do, they often prefer something lighter and slightly chilled.
What wine would you recommend for breaking away from familiar patterns and creating a fresh take on the Christmas dinner experience?
Michael Kutej:
Honestly, I wouldn’t take any risks at Christmas. The potential for disappointment is too high. Treat yourself on Christmas Eve by opening a bottle that’s a little pricier than your usual budget allows. At our house, it’ll be the 2018 Shiraz Savitar from Ben Glaetzer in Australia. My wife loves these smooth, full-bodied wines with good fruit but without a jammy character.
"Treat yourself on Christmas Eve by opening a bottle that’s a little pricier …"
Do you have a favorite anecdote about wine that you enjoy sharing?
Michael Kutej:
Too many to count! One of my favorites is from a high-profile blind tasting at our club. Steffi Hehn, Max Wilm, and Gerhard Retter were all there. We were presented with a flight of five Chardonnays from around the world. In my understated Austrian way, I declared, "Glass three is definitely Burgundy. No question!"
Thank goodness no one took me up on it! There were indeed two Burgundies in the flight—but glass three turned out to be a Chardonnay from Huber in Baden. Lesson learned: always work with professionals. ;-)
One last question: What’s your favorite wine? Can you tell us how you discovered and fell in love with it?
Michael Kutej:
Such a tough question—there are too many favorites, especially the ones that make certain moments unforgettable. Right now, I’m loving the Jubilum Sparkling, crafted by Katharina Reinecker in Markgräfler Land for Fritz Keller. It’s 100% Blanc de Noir with just 2g of sugar—a wine that never gets boring, even after a whole bottle. Or the 2021 Grüner Veltliner Herrentrost by Michi Malat from Krems—a Grüner Veltliner with tension, minerality, and an easy-drinking character. Especially during this busy time of year, I prefer wines at home that aren’t too intellectual but can stay fresh in the fridge for several days after being opened.
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